Merhaba!
All this traveling alone has really made me realize how much I like to travel by myself. Really! I have absolutely no problem going to sites on my own. I love traveling at my own pace. I can take a closer look at the things I’m interested in, no one cares if I want to play with the settings on my camera and most importantly I’m not hindered by anyone’s schedule.
Last week, my second last week in Turkey, I had two off days in a row. On Thursday, Zeynep told me that I could have that day and the following off. I packed my bags and got on the first bus to Izmir. I didn’t really have a plan. In fact, I didn’t even have a hotel booked. All I had was a change of clothes, money and my trusty camera. I got a hold of Rita on the bus and told her that I was going to have the following day off that she and her boyfriend, Mike, should meet me in Pammukale.
The bus took me about three hours to the main terminal in Izmir.
Just let me go on a tangent here as to why the buses in Turkey are so much better than the greyhounds in Canada:
- There are personalized TVs at every seat- with games, radio, film, and television
- When you purchase a ticket you get a seat, and a seat number. Women are seated with women, men with men. I can not tell you how many times I have bought a greyhound ticket only to arrive at the station and the bus if full! Or how many times I have been harassed by some skeevy man on the bus.
- They have service! They bring you water every hour, they serve tea and cofee, they give snacks. The day I travelled was particularly hot and we all got mini tubs of ice cream.
- They are cheap.
Greyhound needs to step up their game.
Back to my trip, If you look at a map, I actually overshot where I wanted to travel. But in all fairness, I couldn’t get a direct bus to Ephesus from Bodrum right away. The “plan” I had made on the bus was that I would book a hotel in Izmir, get back on another bus and go to Ephesus, then return to Izmir afterward. That was before I realized how big Izmir was (and how in-the-middle-of-nowhere the bus station was) and honestly I was too cheap to cab. I just prayed I’d find a reasonable hotel in Ephesus.
I got on a minibus and took a one hour bus to Selçuk, a town just next to Ephesus. Now the minibus was not as luxurious as my previous bus- by minibus I mean “large van” and by not as luxurious I mean crowded, smelly and sans in trip service. Oh well c’est la vie. I got off in Selçuk and decided I'd go straight to the ruins, rather than figure out my sleeping situation. While trying to figure out how to get there, I was lucky enough to meet a guy right at the bus terminal who owned a hostel in town. The little place was well kept and clean. I got a private room with a queen sized bed, AC and a private bathroom for 50TL (dinner and mornings breakfast included!). I even got free transport to and from Ephesus by the assitant, Ramazan. Dad, don’t freak out, but it was on a motorcycle.
Ephesus was just...phenomenal. I had been looking forward to seeing it my entire trip. To be honest, this late in my trip I had already accepted that I might never see it.
So when I finally got there (at 5pm) the place was completely abandoned, I was over the moon. How many chances do you get to see a tourist attraction like that basically empty? I wandered between crumbling pillars, busts of forgotten deities and ancient tablets at my own leisure. My only company was a humerous security guard who actually encouraged me to get ON relics to take pictures. There weren’t people crowded at famous spots waiting to take photos (save for at the library... but we will get to that later).
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See what I mean? |
Ephesus is a first century B.C ancient city in the province of Izmir. Pretty cool story as to how this place was chosen for settlement. The son of the Athenian King (from the Kingdom of Athens), Androklos, wanted to build his own settlement. He visited a wise man who told him that a fish and a boar would show him. Story goes that his men boarded a boat, caught fish and made a fire. A wild boar, in fear of the fire, ran from the campsite. Androklos pursued the boar on horseback, killed it, and voila the new city was found.
Well I’m not going to write too much about the city itself, instead I’m just going to talk a little about each picture I post. Way more interesting I think.
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The Odeion/Boulteterion built in 150 A.D by Publius Veduis Antoninus. This structure looks like a theatre, which is exactly what it is! As a odeion it was used for concerts, as a bouleterion is was used for boule meetings (government). It can seat 1500 people. |
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Side entrance to the Odeion |
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This structure, the Prytaneion, marks the town hall. Within the town hall there was a holy fireplace. The main duty of the governor was to ensure that the holy fire was never put out. In fact, the fire burned for hundreds of years on behalf of the fireplace god Hestia Bouleia. |
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A carving of the Greek God Hermes (3rd century A.D), God of Transition and Boundaries. One of his duties was messenger to the gods, note his little winged sandals. |
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Just showing off some of the detail that is on the excavated pillar feet |
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Detail on a pillar |
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Tablet in the inscription museum |
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Domitian temple is a temple dedicated to the Emperor Domitian (81-96 A.D). Behind it you will notice that the temple is not completely excavated |
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Momument of Memmimus (1st century B.C). Memmimus was the grandson of Dictator Sulla. Memimus' father Cauis, and grandfather (who is unfortunately chipped away) Sulla are featured on the monument. |
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The Hadrian Temple (2nd century A.D)- which, by the way I could not get a proper picture of because some lady decided to park her but here on the front step for half an hour. The nerve... This building has been beautifully restored. |
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The Traian Fountain (102 A.D) dedicated to Emperor Traian. |
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Myself in front of the Celsus Library (early 2nd century). The library was built on the tomb of Roman senator Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus (the govenor of the province of Asia). The library could fit 12000 scrolls. Special niches protected scrolls from heat and humidity. |
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A closer look at all the people parking their butts and ruining my shot haha. You can see four statues of women in the front representing the four aspects of Celsus. The characters from left to right are Sophia ( sagacity or wisdom), Arete (character or valor), Ennoia (intelligence), and Episteme (knowledge and experience). |
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Closer look at Sophia |
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In the Grand Theatre- where all the gladiator fights happened |
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The theatre from afar |
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In front of harbor street |
If you go definitely take a guide book with you. You will appreciate everything you see a million times more. It’s not just a piece of old stone your looking at, it’s the grave stone of a gladiator. Every little thing has a story. P.S if anyone wants to read a super cool article about the gladiator gravestones, click here.
Selçuk is such a small town and everyone seemed to know the guy who was giving me a ride. He picked me up at the sites (on the bike) and gave me a mini tour of town before dinner. My free kebab dinner was, well free, so nothing to complain about there.
The following morning, I got on another minibus to Pammukale to see my sister. When the driver saw that I was traveling alone, he offered me shot gun. Despite my limited Turkish, and his limited English, we talked the whole way. Official bestie to the driver has its perks, double seat (legroom, not that I need it), free water/snacks at rest stops, and figs! It’s fig season right now and I have been gorging on fresh figs all the time. When I pointed to all the side road stalls, telling the driver ben seviyorum (I love), he picked some up for the whole van at the next rest stop. Can you guess who got extra?
Pammukale, means “cotton castle” in Turkish. This site contains natural hot springs and mineral pools created by flowing water. The ancient Greeco-Roman city of Hieropolis was built on top of the hill.
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Pretty water pools that you couldn't swim in |
It was great seeing Rita, but honestly, this site was overrated. It was really hot that day, so it was nice to sit in the pools, but that’s really all we could do. It was super crowded, people absolutely everywhere. Not to mention we couldn't stop thinking about how nasty the pools were (reinforced when we frequently found band-aids in the clay). Just not my cup of tea.
In other news! I am all packed up and ready to leave tomorrow night. My bag is (if you can believe it) exactly 50 pounds.
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Geography lesson with Can. "Look how far you have to fly!" |
This week I learned how to make Turkish manti. Excited to try this out at home.
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The finished product!
Lastly, my summer project with Lal is finally finished. All summer she has been writing a story in English (with illustrations). Check it out here. Go to the blog Archives-> Hit May and find chapter 1. Work your way to the front page. Enjoy!
See you soon Canada.
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